Straight from the AW19 shows of London, Paris, Milan and beyond, here's our pick of the trends you should be wearing later this year.
From the nutso stuff we saw on the runways of London to the show-off central gear of Milan and the uber elegance of Paris, we’ve distilled all the big trends that will be coming your way this winter.
From the most fashionable colours to the most must-have of must-have accessories and the coats you’ll be clamouring for when the temperature drops this autumn, here’s everything you need to know for AW19.
Ozzy Osbourne Outerwear
From left: Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Berluti, Dunhill, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Marni, Paul Smith
The mood was hells angels on heat (and then some) at the first day of shows for LFWM today. The temperatures outside were brisk, and the clothes shown indoors, on the capital’s runways, looked ready to take on the challenge. From the Meatloaf-comeback-tour-ready leather trench coats (and trousers) at John Lawrence Sullivan, to the heavy duty leather donkey jackets at Bobby Abbley and Pronouce, to the heavy-duty leather corsetry and souped up bondage pieces at Art School and Daniel Fletcher; so long as it’s black, matte and taken from the pelt of a bovine stronger than you, it should be on your back. Oh, and the heavy matte leather fisherman's smock shown at Hussein Chalayan's excellent show was a thing of beauty.
In Milan, the trend continued, with oversized slick leather trench coats at Marni, Fendi and Prada, while at Neil Barrett and Dolce & Gabbana, cropped hell’s angels bombers had a nineties appeal.
In Paris the look was even more prevalent, with oversized black leather trenches - not quite matte, not quite high-shine - in nearly every major show. From the Parisian existentialist-style trench coats at Celine, to the sleek Macs from Louis Vuitton, Paul Smith and Dunhill, if there’s only one item you buy next season, make it a black leather coat, rather than jacket.
From left: MSGM, E Tautz, Bobby Abley, Pronounce, Liam Hodges, Jil Sander, Wooyoungmi, Jaquemus
Though tailoring may have taken a hit in recent seasons, with a general move toward athleisure gear and hardcore sportswear, for Autumn Winter ‘19 suits are back, but not as you know it. On the first day of London Fashion Week Men’s there were countless two pieces which hit the runways, but the majority were cut from denim rather than flannel.
From oversized denim chore jackets teamed with matching oversized jeans at Bobby Abbley and E Tautz, to neat little sixties-style denim jackets, complete with patch pockets and camp collars, teamed with slim cut jeans, double denim in its purest form was everywhere. Just don’t call them Canadian Tuxedos.
In Paris the look took an elegant turn with slim cut styles being shown at Jil Sander and Wooyoungmi, while the opening look of Jacquemus had a market stall-owner appeal.
Oversized trench coats
From left: Neil Barrett, Daniel W Fletcher, Pronounce, E Tautz, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Valentino
The trench coat trend really flapped into action with the dawn of Riccardo Tisci’s first collection for Burberry last season, when the designer showed a host of iterations of the classically British style in fabrics ranging from classic Gabardine to cashmere. The eclectic reimaginings of the style continued at London Fashion Week Men’s today, with a series of totally contrasting takes on a coat which was originally designed to protect soldiers from the elements in, you guessed it, the trenches of World War I. For AW’19 the best takes thus far include an oversized leather trench at John Lawrence Sullivan, a series of classic gabardine trenches in drapey proportions at wood wood, E Tautz and Daniel Fletcher; and our personal favourite, a series of neon taped, inside out-looking trench coats, neatly belted at the waist to balance their voluminous proportions, at Pronounce - the AW’19 show from the latter being a Saturday at LFWM highlight. Kent & Curwen's oversized trenches had a particularly preppy-meets-One Fine Day appeal, which felt surprisingly fresh.
In Paris the look reached it’s zenith, with beautifully crafted trench coats swooping down most of the runways. The best could be found in muted shades at Louis Vuitton and Valentino, while the look went full luxury with a cashmere iteration at Dior.
Harry Potter scarves
From left: Kent & Curwen, Bobby Abley, E. Tautz, Nicholas Daley, Bobby Abley, Valentino, Acne Studios, Loewe
Ultra-thick and looking as though they’ve been knitted by nanas, the big accessory trend for Autumn Winter ‘19 is for massively oversized scarves a la Harry Potter. “From the balaclava-hybrid styles at Bobby Abley and loosely-flung lengthy scarves at Etro and Acne, to the academic styles at Kent & Curwen and the super-long crusty-come-cosy pieces wrapped round models necks at E Tautz, Loewe and Valentino.
From left: John Lawrence Sullivan, John Lawrence Sullivan, Per Götesson, Daniel W Fletcher, Daniel W Fletcher, Berluti, Wooyoungmi, Dunhill
First seen during Mark Weston’s Spring Summer ‘19 outing for Dunhill, wide leg trousers with popper bottoms (a la Kappa, back in the day), are all the rage for Autumn Winter ‘19. Designed to create a cleaner break when wearing a trouser with a wider base (as is the current wont), this style works particularly worn with western boots. Shown in leather at John Lawrence Sullivan, flannel at Daniel Fletcher and neon-piped mohair at Pronounce, trust us, this is the easiest way into the flared trouser trend. Even Fendi showed a series of seventies style wool mohair trousers - in expensively muted shades - finished with zips up the calf.
In Paris, the zip leg leather trousers from Berluti looked surprisingly elegant, while the denim styles at Wooyoungmi were easy wearing in acid washes, and Weston did it again at Dunhill with suits finished with perfect split legs.
Long line puffer jackets
From left: Iceberg, Fendi, DSquared2, Marni, Kent & Curwen, Ermenegildo Zegna, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens
Less Ezra Miller in head-to-toe black PVC on the recent Fantastic Beasts 2 press run, more Zsa Zsa Gabor on the slopes of Gstaad, pretty much every show at London Fashion Week Men’s (from the club-tie inspired styles at Kent and Curwen, to the retro wet look pieces at Iceberg and the high function long line puffers in tailoring fabrics at Qasimi) featured a long line puffer jacket. As the polar vortex starts to build, this is one trend we’d like to see in stores right about now.
This trend continued a pace in Milan, with Canali showing a beautifully muted wool take on the style, while Philipp Plein built his entire AW’19 show around the trend and DSquared2’s lumberjack at rave collection featured a series of bright takes on the style, too. Styling tip: wear over a cardigan which is even longer than your coat, for an interesting textural counterpoint.
In Paris the look went ultra-chic with easier to wear, low denier puffers dominating the runways.